Official Luthiers Forum!

To end my highjack of Bruce's thread I thought I would open a new one for this

On the last guitar finished in my shop I changed my prep and level sand proceedure. I like it. I found it a lot less labor intensive and real simple and affective. Below is a short explanation

Prep sand: Micromesh 100-180 Mx series on electric RO w/ soft backup pad. (added holes for vacum dust collection. made my own from high den. foam and adhisive backed loop) Clean up with naptha

Apply sealer and 4-6 coats of finish over two days allowing to gas off between coats and set up over night

dry Level with Micromesh 100-240 MX series on electric RO w/ soft backup pad. Clean up with naptha

Apply final two coats and allow to cure (one week Min. Two is better, 30days is best)

Final wet level (lightly soapy distiled water) and polish with 1800 (or 2400 depending)through 12000 regular series Micromesh on peunmatic RO w/ soft backup pad.(no holes) Clean up with naptha

hand polish with Meguires #7 buff off with lambs wool pad on auto buffer

high buff with fine compound

This took half the time It use to take hand leveling with wet dry paper and leaves no disurnable scratch pattern and a pretty high gloss after the 12000 mm wet sand. Keep the pressure light when using the RO sander, let the MM do the cutting (don't try to wet sand with an electric RO. That goes with out saying, I would think Use a soft backup pad so the Micromesh will conform to the contour and wear evenly. Standard backup pads are too stiff and will not produce the best results.

Micromesh 100MX = to 320p, 240MX = to 600p ( goes finer = to 3250p but I don't use beyond 240MX/600p)
Micromesh 1800 regular = to 600p, 8000 regular = to 2500p, 12000 regular = to 3500p (this last one is a close guess)MichaelP38588.5824652778

Hi Michael,

Guess I haven't been following Bruce's thread that you say you hijacked. Just one question so far -- what sort of finish are you using and how do you apply it? You're not french polishing are you?

Best,

Michael

_________________
Live to Play, Play to Live

Hi, Michael

I use this process on KTM9 and nitro. The gas off and cure time for nito is differnt,but sanding proccess is the same. I have to admitt that the paper cost a penny or two, but the time it saves is great. I take good care to not over load or gum up the Micromesh and clean them off directly after use and I get good life out of them. Micromesh claims 15 times longer life. I would say more like four or five time with wet sanding and two or three times with dry sanding. I have not been using the MX series long enough to really say yet, but it seems to last about the same.

The finish is sprayed. I do French Polish but dont use this process on French polishMichaelP38589.3890625

Michael, I don't believe I've seen the MX type of MM. What is the difference between that and regular MM?

And, where do you purchase it?

Thanks for showing us your finishing schedule! This is a place that I can definately use all the help I can get.

_________________
Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

It comes in corser grits is a bit more agressive. Designed for dry sanding on soft metal and hard woods I by direct from Micro surfaces at micro-surface.com. way cheaper than the kits at StewMac or LMI.

Thanks! I bought my last bunch of MM from Micro Surfaces so I am familiar with them. I think it may have been because I saw an earlier post of yours.

Just didn't see the coarser grits when I ordered. Probably just wasn't looking for them.

_________________
Dave Rector
Rector Guitars